One of the wonders of the world. It is truly spectacular. We get to return tonight for a full moon viewing.

Agra, outside the Taj Mahal, does not differ much from Delhi. Dirty. Garbage abounds. Smells. Loud. Our hotel, ITC Mughal, is 5 Star for Agra and is a Starwood Hotel. Elaborate lobby, grungy rooms.

We leave in the morning for Ranthambore, a tiger preserve, where we will go on safari with the hope of seeing a tiger or two.

For me, the Taj Mahal probably makes the trip worthwhile. It’s hard to describe its majesty. That and the safari days to come will be highlights for me. Francie and I are homesick, we need some comfort food (our hotel does not even have a sundry shop where you can buy a KitKat or coke).

There is something about the air here – pollution, smog, stench. It brings on a malaise. The hotels combat this by burning pungent candles in the hallways! We are hoping the preserve will bring some relief from this, but who knows?